3 Tips for Better Long Exposure Photography

So you’ve seen some majestic long exposure photography online, and may have even tried to take a few yourself, but aren’t having the best luck? Look no further, I’ve put together my top 3 tips to instantly improve your long exposure photography - whether you’re just starting out or have been shooting for years.

long-exposure-photography-tips-4.jpg
long-exposure-photography-tips-6.jpg
long-exposure-photography-tips-2.jpg

Bring the right gear

Having the correct gear is not only essential for creating basic long exposure photos, but later down the road when you start playing with your camera settings for more creative effects certain pieces of gear can make a big difference. I’ve broken the gear into two sections: essential for creating long exposures, and gear that will make your life easier when creating long exposures.

The Essentials:

long-exposure-photography-tips-5.jpg
  1. A camera that allows you to slow down the shutter speed. Even if you don’t own a DSL, there are many mobile phone apps that give you manual control over your phone’s camera settings.

  2. Tripod: Preferably a sturdy tripod, but if not a flat surface to leave your camera on will also work! This is essential because you need to be able to keep your camera compeltely still. As much as i’d like to say I could hold my camera for even a second without moving, that just isn’t the case. Investing in a good tripod will allow you to more easily frame your shot and focus on the creative aspect of photography. My tripod of choice is the Slik Carbon Fiber PRO CF-834 because it’s really sturdy while still being light enough to travel/hike with.

  3. Neutral Density (ND) Filters: While technically not essential for long exposure photography once it’s already dark outside, they are absolutely necessary during all other hours of the day. Not only that, but simply put your photos will be much better quality if using filters. They give you much more creative control over your shutter speed and even allow you to shoot long exposure photos during midday.

    I’ve used a lot of different types of lens filters from many different companies, and so far PolarPro’s have been my favorite. Full disclosure, I am a recent PolarPro Brand Ambassador, but I honestly am very impressed with their filters and highly recommend them. My favorite is their Quartzline circular ND and VND filters because they are really high quality and quick to set up. If you’re just getting started with filters and not sure where to start, I’d recommend a 6-stop ND filter. It hits that sweet spot and can be used in the majority of scenarios. *the links above are affiliate links and I receive a small commission if you purchase through them.

  4. Self Timer Mode: This one may not seem as obvious, but you definitely want to utilize your camera’s self-timer mode to avoid any vibration you might cause by clicking the shutter button yourself. There’s no worse feeling than taking a 3-minute exposure only to realize that its blurry due to that quick little press of the shutter.

Nice to Have:

long-exposure-photography-tips-6.JPG
  1. Remote Shutter: While you can definitely use your camera’s self-timer function, if you start shooting a lot of long exposures you’ll likely want a remote shutter. They come both wired and wireless, and allow you to click the shutter button without touching the camera or needing to use the self-timer. Sparing yourself those 2-5 seconds before each photo will not only help your sanity but is also crucial for timing out long exposures of cars and buses.

  2. Photography planning apps, such as PhotoPills: This subject could have an entire article on it, but if you are shooting astrophotography or trying to shoot the Milky Way you will definitely want an app like PhotoPills. These apps allow you to look into the future and see when will be best to photography the night sky, among many other awesome features.

  3. L Bracket: While not necessary, I absolutely love my L bracket and highly recommend them to anyone interested in long exposure photography. Not only does it allow you to shoot in portrait mode without moving your tripod’s ball head (making it much easier to fine-tune your composition), it also helps protect your camera. Mine has already saved my Sony from a fall! The L Bracket I use is now discontinued, but a quick search on Amazon and you’ll likely be able to find one for around $50.

choose the right settings

The question I get asked most about long exposure photography is which camera settings do I use, and the answer is always different. Truth be told, there are so many types of long exposure photos, and your settings could be very different for each one. On top of that, there are countless combinations of camera settings that will give you a properly exposed long exposure. That said, what we are most interested in, is finding the settings that best tell our image’s story. So which settings are the right settings? While I can’t give you an exact answer, I generally like to keep my ISO as low as possible, my aperture between f7 - f16, and my shutter speed to match the correct scenario. I’ve outlined a few of these shutter speed scenarios below to help get you started:

  • 1/2s - 2s: Best for photos where you want to blur things like buses/cars and water, while still keeping its structure. (Images on the left and right down below).

  • 15s - 20s: Best for Astro or Milky Way photos. Any longer and you’ll start to introduce star trails and your stars won’t appear sharp. Open your aperture as low as it goes, and adjust your ISO accordingly.

  • 30s - 60s: Best for car/traffic trail photos where you want to either fill up the frame; showing motion on fast-moving clouds; and creating that silky smooth water on seascapes. (Middle image below, and top right image at the very top).

  • 2 minutes - 10 minutes +: Best for dramatic cloud movement photos, clearing cities of people during the day, completely flattening out water, and a few other creative situations. It also is sometimes necessary when taking long exposure shots at higher apertures when you want to keep everything in focus but there isn’t much available light.

long-exposure-photography-tips.jpg
long-exposure-photography-tips-7.jpg
long-exposure-photography-tips-3.jpg

Have fun and enjoy the process

When I first discovered long exposure photography for myself, it was love at first sight. Since then, long exposure photography has always been one of my favorite types and I try to incorporate it into as many photos as I can. One of my favorite things about long exposure photography is that in a world that is constantly ‘go, go, go’ - it forces you to slow down. Rather than being able to move around and take hundreds of photos in a matter of minutes, long exposures can take several minutes each and force you to stay in one place. For me, i’ve always found it relaxing and almost like a form of meditation. So, make sure to enjoy the process and have fun with it all! I hope you learned a lot from this article and will be shooting those silky smooth waterfalls, crispy light trails, and dramatic cloud movement photos in no time!

What is your favorite type of long exposure photography? Let me know below in the comments!

Andrew Wille10 Comments